For craft beer lovers we can’t get enough of that smooth toasted flavor in a Fat Tire. This signature amber ale is our go-to when we want something balanced and easy drinking. So we decided to craft a clone recipe that captures that caramel sweetness with a hint of hop bitterness.
We’re excited to share how to recreate this beloved brew at home. We’ll walk through the right blend of malts and a mild hop profile. With just a few easy steps you’ll enjoy a batch that tastes like it came straight from the brewery.
Fat Tire Clone Recipe
Brew Stats
| Parameter | Range |
|---|---|
| Original Gravity (OG) | 1.050–1.054 |
| Final Gravity (FG) | 1.010–1.012 |
| IBUs | 18–22 |
| SRM | 12–14 |
| ABV | 5.2%–5.4% |
Ingredients
- 6 lbs liquid pale malt extract
- 1 lb Munich malt (crushed)
- 1 lb Crystal 40 malt (crushed)
- 1 oz Willamette hops (60-minute boil addition)
- 0.25 oz Tettnang hops (15-minute boil addition)
- 1 package American ale yeast (clean fermenter strain)
- Clean, chlorine-free water (enough for a 5-gallon batch)
Brewing Steps
- Place crushed Munich malt and Crystal 40 malt in a mesh bag. Steep them in 155°F water for 20 minutes. Remove the grains and allow excess liquid to drip.
- Stir in the pale malt extract. Bring the wort to a rolling boil.
- Add 1 oz of Willamette hops at the start of the 60-minute boil.
- With 15 minutes remaining, stir in 0.25 oz of Tettnang hops to contribute subtle aroma.
- After the boil, cool the wort quickly. We use an immersion chiller or an ice bath.
- Transfer cooled wort to a sanitized fermenter. Top up with water to reach 5 gallons if needed.
- Aerate thoroughly and pitch the American ale yeast. Secure the fermenter with an airlock.
- Ferment at 68°F for about two weeks, or until final gravity stabilizes between 1.010 and 1.012.
- Transfer to a bottling bucket. Prime with corn sugar if bottling, or force carbonate if kegging.
We enjoy how this Fat Tire clone highlights caramel sweetness and a mild hop bitterness that replicates the iconic amber ale. We ensure proper sanitization at every step for the freshest flavor.
Ingredients
We rely on these carefully chosen ingredients to replicate the balanced profile of our Fat Tire Clone. Each component contributes flavor, aroma, and color.
Malt Bill
| Malt | Amount |
|---|---|
| 2-row pale malt | 5 lb |
| Munich malt | 2 lb |
| Crystal 40L | 0.5 lb |
| Victory malt | 0.5 lb |
We crush these grains to enhance extraction in the mash.
Hop Additions
| Hop | Time (minutes) | Amount | Alpha Acid |
|---|---|---|---|
| Willamette | 60 | 0.5 oz | ~5% |
| Willamette | 15 | 0.25 oz | ~5% |
We add the first dose at the start of the boil and the second during the last 15 minutes for subtle aroma.
Yeast and Other Additives
- We pitch American ale yeast such as Wyeast 1056, White Labs WLP001, or Safale US-05.
- We add Irish moss or a Whirlfloc tablet during the last 15 minutes of the boil to help clarify our amber ale.
Equipment
We rely on several key items to replicate our Fat Tire Clone. Each tool helps us achieve stable mash temperatures and consistent fermentation. Here is a quick reference:
| Equipment | Recommended Capacity | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Brew Kettle | 5 to 6 gallons | We boil our wort here to extract malt flavors and develop hop profiles |
| Mash Tun | 5 to 10 gallons | We hold our crushed grains at stable mash temperatures for optimal sugar conversion |
| Fermenter | 6 to 6.5 gallons | We house the wort for yeast fermentation and provide room for foam expansion |
| Airlock | N/A | We attach the airlock to the fermenter to let CO₂ escape and keep contaminants out |
| Thermometer | N/A | We track the temperature in the mash tun and brew kettle for precise temperature control |
| Hydrometer | N/A | We measure gravity before and after fermentation to ensure our target ABV is reached |
| Sanitizer | N/A | We sanitize all surfaces that will touch the wort to prevent unwanted bacteria or wild yeast |
We sanitize all our equipment thoroughly before every use. We confirm that the brew kettle is large enough to prevent boil-overs. We maintain our thermometer within arm’s reach to measure temperature shifts in the mash tun. We rely on a well-fitted fermenter and airlock to keep our clone batch safe while the yeast works. We take a hydrometer reading before we seal the fermenter to track gravity changes throughout fermentation.
Preparation
We set up our brewing area for a smooth and organized brew day. We gather all tools in one place to maintain a clean workflow.
Sanitizing
We sanitize everything that contacts our beer. We use a food-safe sanitizer and soak the kettle, fermenter, airlock, and all utensils. We ensure our hands and work surfaces remain clean. We follow the sanitizer’s instructions for optimal contact time. Any leftover sanitizer drains before use.
Measuring and Layout
We begin by confirming our water volumes and grain weights. We measure each malt separately. We layout our hops in separate containers for each boil addition. We label the additions by time during the boil. This method helps us avoid confusion and keeps us on track.
| Measurement | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Mash Water | 4 gallons | For 5-gallon batch |
| Sparge Water | 3 gallons | Depending on mash efficiency |
| Boil Length | 60 minutes | Typical for this clone |
We position the brew kettle close to our heat source. We set our thermometer and hydrometer within reach. This arrangement allows us to track temperatures and gravity readings without delay.
Mash and Boil
We maintain precise temperatures and timing to capture the smooth toasted flavor of our Fat Tire Clone. We combine freshly crushed grains with heated strike water to begin extracting the desired malt character.
Mash Steps
- Heat strike water to 165°F. We aim for enough volume to cover our grain bill fully.
- Stir crushed grains into the mash tun. This should settle at 152°F for 60 minutes. We check temperature often.
- Perform a gentle stir every 20 minutes. This keeps the mash consistent.
- After 60 minutes, raise the temperature to 168°F for a 10-minute mash out. This helps rinse additional sugars.
- Sparge with hot water around 170°F. We collect enough wort for a full boil volume.
Boil Steps
- Transfer the wort to our brew kettle and bring it to a rolling boil. We ensure our kettle is large enough to prevent boil-over.
- Boil for 60 minutes. We add hops and clarifier according to schedule.
- Keep a close eye on the kettle to manage foam. Stir gently when needed.
- Add Irish moss or a Whirlfloc tablet at 15 minutes left in the boil to encourage clarity.
Hop Schedule
| Hop Addition | Time Remaining in Boil | Amount |
|---|---|---|
| Willamette | 60 minutes | 0.5 oz |
| Willamette | 15 minutes | 0.5 oz |
| Willamette | 5 minutes | 0.25 oz |
Fermentation
We carefully manage Fermentation to capture the balanced malt profile of our Fat Tire clone. We maintain consistent temperatures to promote healthy yeast activity and ensure a crisp amber finish.
Primary Fermentation
- Transfer the cooled wort to a sanitized fermenter
- Pitch our chosen American ale yeast at about 68°F
- Seal the fermenter with a sanitized airlock to prevent contamination
- Keep the fermenter in a location with a stable temperature
- Monitor fermentation activity through the airlock and check gravity readings after 7 to 10 days
| Stage | Duration | Temperature | Gravity Check |
|---|---|---|---|
| Primary | 7 to 10 days | 68°F | Confirm gravity drop |
| Secondary (Optional) | 10 to 14 days | 65°F | Stable final reading |
Optional Secondary Fermentation
- Transfer the beer to a secondary vessel to clear additional sediment
- Maintain a slightly cooler space around 65°F
- Let the beer condition for 10 to 14 days until it reaches the final gravity
- Stabilize flavor and clarity before priming and bottling
Bottling and Carbonation
- We confirm that fermentation has finished by checking the final gravity against our target. We take two readings on consecutive days and ensure they match.
- We sanitize our bottles and caps using a food-safe sanitizing solution. We submerge them for the recommended contact time.
- We boil priming sugar in about 2 cups of water for 5 minutes to ensure sterility. We let it cool before adding it to a sanitized bottling bucket.
- We gently siphon our Fat Tire clone recipe from the fermenter into the bottling bucket. We aim for little agitation to avoid oxygen exposure.
- We stir the priming solution carefully into the beer. We stir slowly and limit foam formation.
- We fill bottles to about one inch below the top. We secure sanitized caps immediately.
- We store our bottles upright at around 70°F for 2 weeks. We allow carbonation to develop.
Below is a basic guideline for priming sugar amounts:
| Batch Size | Priming Sugar | Carbonation Level (Volumes of CO₂) |
|---|---|---|
| 5 gallons | 5 oz by weight | 2.4 |
We prefer this carbonation range for an amber ale that highlights smooth malt character while balancing hop brightness.
Conclusion
We hope this recipe brings the same warmth and satisfaction as the commercial classic. It offers a hands-on way to explore homebrewing and craft an incredible amber ale at your own pace. Reflect on your technique and make tweaks to personalize future batches.
Brewing is an art and a science and this clone captures the flavors that made Fat Tire famous. Enjoy the journey and savor every frothy pour.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a Fat Tire clone beer?
A Fat Tire clone beer is a homebrewed version of the popular Fat Tire amber ale. It captures the same smooth toasted malts, light caramel sweetness, and balanced hop bitterness as the original. This homebrew recipe uses a specific combination of grains, hops, and yeast, following a careful brewing process. By replicating the flavor profile at home, you can enjoy a fresh, brewery-style batch of this beloved craft beer whenever you like.
What malts are used in the clone recipe?
The malt bill typically includes 2-row pale malt, Munich malt, Crystal 40L, and Victory malt. These malts work together to create the beer’s signature amber color, toasted flavor, and gentle sweetness. You’ll need to crush the grains before mashing to allow for better extraction of fermentable sugars. This balanced blend of malts is key to achieving the familiar Fat Tire taste, ensuring every sip delivers warm, rich malt tones.
Why is sanitizing important?
Sanitizing is critical for keeping bacteria and wild yeast out of your brew. Any contamination can alter flavors, create off-aromas, or spoil the beer entirely. By using a food-safe sanitizer and following the recommended contact time, you drastically reduce the risk of infections. A well-sanitized setup ensures a fresh, clean fermentation environment so the yeast can work properly and preserve the classic amber ale profile you’re aiming to replicate.
What equipment do I need?
You’ll need a brew kettle, mash tun, fermenter, airlock, thermometer, hydrometer, and sanitizer. A sturdy, food-grade plastic or glass fermenter is recommended to hold the wort during fermentation. Make sure everything coming into contact with your brew is sanitized. A hydrometer helps you measure gravity readings, while a thermometer ensures you hold the correct temperatures for mashing and fermentation. Each piece of gear plays a role in maintaining quality and consistency.
How do I manage fermentation temperature?
Aim for about 68°F when pitching your American ale yeast. Keep the fermenter in a cool, stable spot, and find ways to maintain temperature, like using a fermentation chamber, swamp cooler, or temperature-control wrap. Consistent temperatures help the yeast perform optimally, avoiding off-flavors. Keeping fermentation within a recommended range ensures the beer’s smooth malt character and balanced hop profile remain intact from start to finish.
How do I know fermentation is complete?
Use a hydrometer to take gravity readings several days apart. If the readings remain the same, typically near the expected final gravity, fermentation is finished. You should also see a drop in airlock activity. The beer will usually taste less sweet as the yeast consumes fermentable sugars. Ensuring fermentation is complete before bottling prevents over-carbonation or bottle bombs. Patience here pays off in creating a properly balanced and stable amber ale.
Is secondary fermentation necessary?
Secondary fermentation is optional but can improve clarity and flavor. By transferring the beer to a secondary vessel once primary fermentation slows, you allow more yeast and sediment to settle out. This creates a cleaner-tasting, clearer brew. A secondary stage usually lasts 10 to 14 days at around 65°F. While not mandatory, many homebrewers opt for it to achieve a professional look and feel, especially when brewing a recipe that highlights color and clarity.
How do I bottle and carbonate my beer?
After confirming fermentation is complete, sanitize your bottles and caps. Dissolve priming sugar in water and add it to a bottling bucket. Carefully siphon the beer into the bucket, mixing gently with the priming solution. Fill each bottle to about an inch below the top, then cap tightly. Store the bottles at room temperature (around 70°F) to allow natural carbonation. This process usually takes two weeks, giving the yeast enough time to create the perfect level of fizz.